Erik is in the middle of a refinishing project for a client. He is working on two tables in oak, a material he doesn’t usually refinish because most modern furniture seems to come in walnut or teak veneer.
The client wanted a change from the golden oak look, so Erik had her pick a stain color she liked. Yesterday, we spent the day staining the various pieces from the tables. (Erik disassembles as much as he can with furniture because it makes each part of the job easier.)
Here are some photos of the tables after the original finish was removed and the pieces were sanded, followed by the pieces stained.
Table legs and skirt awaiting stain. May 2018.
Table legs and skirt after being stained. May 2018.
Garrison Hutch (glass inserted), restored April 2018.
We’ve handled Garrison hutches in several sizes before at Erik G. Warner Decorative Salvage. This one is one of the wider hutches.
For a person who needs a fashionable cabinet that allows for both hidden storage and storage to showcase special items, this piece fits the bill. Erik has fully refinished this hutch, reinforcing the legs and subframe in order to give it more stability.
It measures 48″ wide x 15″ deep x 68″ high.
This Garrison hutch is available for purchase at MidModMen+friends. Stop by the store to check it out.
Note: This item has SOLD.
Garrison hutch, glass doors removed to provide clearer view of upper shelves, April 2018.
I am NOT an expert and I don’t even play one on TV.**
I just thought I’d share the process I used in my first effort at using a dye stain layered beneath an oil stain in an attempt to give a little depth and warmth to the finish on this set.
The original finish was similar to a blonde finish, though in a different color/tone.
United dresser set as purchased at auction.The first step was to strip off the old finish. I used Klean Strip 15 minute variety. (sorry, I forgot to take a pic of the can so I swiped an image from the interwebs). After scraping the stripper I washed with Lacquer thinner; would have used straight Acetone but I was out.Once the finish was removed I sanded with 150 and then 180 grit.After sanding came the dye stain. I went with TransTint orange mixed in water. I chose water because it would give me a little more open time. I figured that, being new to this, I might need some extra time to move the color around to blend out any potential streaks or runs.United low-boy, dye stained orange.The next step after the dye was a sealer coat of dewaxed shellac. I happened to have enough Ruby that I had mixed for another project left over so I used that. I had this thinned to a 1 pound cut. When spraying you have to adjust your fluid and air flow rates (if using a compressor set-up) and have to make sure you move the gun at the right speed so you get an even application but don’t deposit so much material that you get runs and sags.After a little light sanding I applied General Finishes Mahogany stain.Here’s the hi-boy post stain application.Once the stain had dried, I gave it two + days, I laid down several (3-4) coats of 1 pound cut SealCoat de-waxed shellac. I didn’t have enough of the ruby left and was able to pick this up at a local shop so I could move the project forward.Up after the shellac were a few coats of lacquer. Went with Watco Satin, thinned about 25% on the first two coats, and then about 50% on a final coat.United low-boy all finished. Hoping it has a nice glowing orange, Mahogany look.
**Editor’s note: It is obvious that Erik wrote this post because he immediately starts out by downplaying any of the skill he has earned over the 6 years he’s been working on refinishing furniture. His education started long before that, when he was a boy watching his Grandma Lillian refinishing furniture. Erik’s work speaks for itself and I’m pretty sure most of the pieces he’s refinished are very happy with their new look (as are the customers who purchase them). – Mary
